Signs of a Sewer Clog

By Bill Aldridge

If your home is more than 30 years old then chances are that it has a cast iron sewer line.  While these old warhorses of the plumbing industry had their time and place, the problem is that iron rusts.  This means that over the years these lines begin to degrade and will inevitably clog, necessitating the kind of intervention that takes a backhoe and can leave your yard looking like the trenches systems of WWI.  That’s the bad news.  The good news is that the entire repair should take no more than a few days by a licensed plumbing company and you don’t need to start tearing up the yard until you see obvious signs of a backup.

The bad news is that once the line does begin to clog you definitely don’t want to stick your head in the sand and assume that the problem will go away.  If anything it will quickly get worse and worse until it is all but impossible to empty a sink or flush a toilet without the water backing up.  In fact, the toilet is one of the first signs you will usually see of an impending problem, since it has a direct path to the sewer and is connected to one of the biggest lines in the house.

Other systems in the bathroom such as the bathtub and shower will also quickly become unusable in the event of a sewer stoppage and no amount of plunging will fix the problem.   However, it doesn’t hurt to check to see whether the tub drain is clogged, especially if there are no other obvious signs of a backup elsewhere.  See the video below to learn how to fix this problem.

Other symptoms of a blockage can include one or more of the following:

1.      When you flush the toilet water comes up in the bathtub.

2.      When you are using the sink next to the toilet, air bubbles start emanating from the toilet.

3.      When you run the dishwasher or the washing machine, the toilet overflows.

4.      A persistent gurgling sound that occurs after you use the washing machine or dishwasher.

5.      Foul odors emanating from more than one sink.

While these symptoms could be signs of other problems, such as air being trapped in the system or a blockage somewhere in the system, if the toilets are not functioning properly then you should definitely call in a plumber.  If you have a main line clean out, you can check for a clog by opening the clean out and visually inspecting for any water or waste that could be collecting there.  If water is either standing in the pipe or water comes out of the pipe the moment you remove the cap, then you definitely have a main line blockage.

Having a blockage does not necessarily mean that the sewer has collapsed or is irretrievably blocked.  Just like your household plumbing, sewer lines that have become blocked can sometimes be cleared with a sewer drain snake.  All manners of things that shouldn’t be flushed down the toilet but are, including diapers, toys and the occasional towel can form a clog that needs to be cleared out by a professional.  Tree roots can also find egress into lines that can eventually slow and even stop the flow of water. 

Even if the sewer itself does become compromised, requiring replacement, this is still cheaper than letting the system back up to the point where water and/or raw sewage backs up into the home which will entail even more costly remediation after the sewer line is replaced.  The best way to avoid any worst case scenario is to call in a licensed plumber as soon as you detect any potential backup.  The earlier you catch a backup, the easier it is to isolate, identify and remedy.  Waiting will only run the risk of creating a problem that can only be solved with heavy machinery and a crew.

Bill Aldridge is the Doctor of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville. Florida.  For more helpful plumbing tips and how-to videos, go to http://aldridgesonsplumbing.com

Why it’s important to hire a licensed plumbing contractor

By Bill Aldridge

A Plumber at work. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

If you scan the newsfeeds like I do every day then you see all kinds of crazy stories about people getting burned by unlicensed contractors.  Like most people, the motivation behind hiring an unlicensed contractor has to do with saving money.  While this is an excellent reason to look before you leap, more often than not the people who hire unlicensed contractors wind up paying more instead of less.  This is due to the fact that while unlicensed contractors talk a good game many wind up being unable or unwilling to complete the job. 

Case in point:

3 unlicensed Contractors Banned in N Dakota

Nelson received $40,825 from three consumers to repair sewer lines and install heating and cooling systems, but failed to properly install the appliances or finish the projects. He has been criminally charged with 19 counts of failure to have a plumber's license.

What will happen here is that the homeowner or business owner will now be forced to pay twice for the same job.  While this sounds like a case of a hard lesson learned, this is by no means the worst case scenario.  Worse than having an unlicensed contractor abscond with the deposit or do a partial repair would be for them to perform the job improperly, in which case either of the following two conditions will prevail:

      1.      The repair will have to be repaired

      2.      The repair will fail and cause damage to the structure.

In either of the above mentioned situations the cost to rectify the problems created by an unlicensed contractor can be extremely expensive.  In many cases the damage done isn’t covered under the homeowner’s policy and you can rest assured that the unlicensed contractor doesn’t have any.  More importantly, there is a better way to get the job done while saving money at the same time.  You see, just as licensed contractors such as I have to put in long hours of study and practical experience to become licensed, knowing how to choose the right contractor for the job is an acquired skill as well.

Step 1: The Pre-Interview

With the advent of the Internet you don’t have to take a contractor’s word that they are honest, courteous and reliable.  You can check out their credentials at the click of a mouse.  To start off, do a search and start checking out plumber websites.  See if they have any videos that tell you what they are all about, as well as testimonials from customers.  Next go to Google Local and type in the name of their business and see for yourself if they have any positive or negative reviews by former customers.  If they have a blog, read a few posts so that you will get to know the type of people with whom you will be dealing.  You will be surprised at what you can learn online nowadays.

Step 2: The Phone Interview

Before allowing prospective contractors to set foot inside your door, you should ask if they are licensed and how much liability insurance they carry.  The last thing you want is to have your property damaged during a repair only to find out that the contractor is either not insured or under insured.

Step 3: The Interview

Once you feel comfortable about your choice of contractors, line up a few and invite them over.  When asking for a quote, make sure that it is in writing.  Also make sure that you ask them about their experience with the intended repair, as well as he length of time they estimate it will take to complete the job.  Also ask the contractor if the quote includes all materials or whether you will be charged an additional fee for needed parts and supplies after the fact. 

Step 4: Permitting

While many plumbing jobs do not require a permit to be pulled, some do.  If you are unsure, make sure you ask the prospective contractor s if a permit is going to be required, who is going to pull the permit, and whether you will have to miss time from work in order to let the inspector onto your property.

Step5: References

While a plumber’s website may have a number of glowing testimonials, it is always a good idea to also ask any potential contractor for three references that you can call.  Don’t assume that the clean cut, soft-spoken young man that shows up to give you a quote is going to be the person tasked to do the work.  You could be in for a rude awakening.  When calling a contractor’s references, ask if the plumbers sent to do the repair were courteous.  Did they arrive promptly?  Did they clean up after themselves?  Also do not be afraid to ask point blank if there was any reason that they would be reluctant to work with this contractor in the future.  While getting a deal on a repair or remodeling job might look good on paper, if the contractor is consistently late, if their subcontractors are noisy or messy, or if the repair or remodeling leaves a lot to be desired, then you could find out after the fact that maybe the lowest price isn’t always the best deal.

Step 6: The Contract

Once you select a contractor with which to work, you need to see a contract that defines the task in its entirety.  All the I’s need to be dotted and the T’s need to be crossed.  If there is anything in the job description that seems a little fuzzy, or if the contractor is unwilling to put any part of the repair or remodel in writing, then it’s time to move onto another candidate.  They don’t call them contractors for nothing.  If it isn’t in the contract then you can rest assured that it is not covered.  Period.

The bottom line is that if you master the skill of choosing the right contractor then you will always be able to save money in the long run.  Since most people own their home for many years, this little policy will always pay big dividends.  And that’s like money in the bank.

Bill Aldridge is the Doctor of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing tips and helpful how-to videos, visit http:// aldridgesonsplumbing.com

Some Like it Hot

By bill Aldridge

In my previous blog, “The Gargoyle in the Garage,” I wrote about the utility guzzling monster called a water heater that can devour up to twenty five percent of your home’s energy.  Other than replacing an old water heater with a newer more energy efficient model, there is one other way to put this beast on a leash: Reduce the water temperature.

The first thing you will want to do is determine to what temperature your water heater is already set.  To do this you will need to use a little kitchen tech.  Go ask your wife if you can borrow a candy thermometer.  Don’t worry macho man, she will know what it is you are seeking.  Once you fetch it, go to the faucet that’s closest to the water heater and run the water for about a minute.  This will allow the cooler water standing in the pipes to exit so that you can more accurately judge the temperature setting.  Hold the thermometer under the flow for thirty seconds or so until the mercury in the thermometer stops rising.  Then read the temp.  If the temperature is 120 degrees Fahrenheit, then this is the setting that nearly every manufacturer recommends.  If the temperature is higher than 120, then either you have an older dishwasher without a preheater in your home, or the thermostat on your water heater is set way too high.  (It’s probably cheaper in the long run to invest in a more energy-efficient dishwasher if the former is the case.) 

If you do need to reset the thermostat and you have a gas water heater, the process is simplicity itself.  Look for the dial located on the front of the gas control. (It us usually either red or black) To adjust your water heater simply rotate the dial to a slightly cooler setting and then come back in about six hours to perform the cookie thermometer test once again.  Repeat as needed until the temperature is registering anywhere from 115 to 120 degrees.

If you have an electric water heater, the procedure is a bit more complicated. First of all you will need to go to the breaker box and throw the switch labeled “Water Heater” in order to kill the juice to the unit.  Next you will have to remove an access panel or two (if you happen to have a dual element heater) and pull the insulation to one side so you can see the thermostat.  (It should have temperature readings clearly visible.)  It may also have a plastic cover that you will need to remove.  The thermostat adjusting screw should be located just above the element.  You will need a small standard screwdriver to adjust the temp. Make sure you replace the cover and redistribute the insulation to as close to the way you found it as possible. Then reinstall the access panel(s) and switch back on the power.  Wait at least six hours before retesting the water temp.

When it comes to water temperature, having the temp set too high not only wastes money, it can also be dangerous, particularly if you have small children at home.  Any setting at or above 130 can produce second degree burns even on adults.   Many people find that a setting of 110-155 degrees is not only sufficient for washing and bathing, but it saves them money month in and month out.  In fact the only time that you ever want to set a water heater to 140 degrees is if and only if the water emanating out of it has a distinctly unpleasant aroma.  This could be caused by bacteria, which can be eliminated by turning the temperature up to 140.  Just remember to turn the temp back down before anyone uses the hot water in any sink or shower.  An hour or so at 140 should prove sufficient to eradicate any bacteria.  The hot water you get into by forgetting to turn the temp back to 110-120 could haunt you for the rest of your life.

Another money saving tip is to insulate the pipes that emanate from the top of the water heater.  The handy video below demonstrates how to perform this task.

Bill Aldridge is the Doctor of Plumbology at Aldridge & Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing hints and how-to videos, visit http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com