Showing posts with label plumbers jacksonville fl. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plumbers jacksonville fl. Show all posts

Friday, December 20, 2013

Your Holiday Wish List

By Bill Aldridge

I realize that it is less than a week until the Christmas holiday.  You are probably busy trying to put the last minute touches on the holiday decorations, the menu for Christmas dinner, not to mention completing Santa’s list and getting ready for the arrival of relatives.  So this is probably not the time of year that you normally spend a lot of time thinking about your plumbing.  But perhaps it should be.  With the holidays can come stress not only to you, your budget and your household, but also to your home’s plumbing.  The influx of guests can have a number of unexpected consequences to your plumbing that can do more damage to your holiday budget than a few Chistmas gifts ever could.  So in order to keep you from adding a plumber to your list of holiday guests, I have prepared a list of items that you should double check while you still have time.

The Ghost of Christmas Dinner Past

While the stresses of preparing the holiday feast can leave many overwhelmed, think of how your pipes feel.  Particularly if you allow relatives or family friends to help you with the cleanup after the dinner is done, there is a high probability that they might wind up putting something down the drain or the disposal that can stop your pipes up cold.  This being said, I have come up with a short list of items that you should print out and tack above the sink come Christmas.

Santa requests that you don’t put the following into the disposal:

Turkey
Stuffing
Gravy
Mashed Potatoes
Potato Peels
Onion Peels
Celery or Squash
Leftover Casseroles
Pumpkin Pie

(All of the above need to be discarded in the trash.  Thanks from Mrs. Claus.)

The problem with peels, rinds and fat is that they can stop either the disposal or congeal in the pipes leading from it.  If you notice that the water is slow to drain from your sink after doing the holiday dishes, try filling your sink with hot water and a few drops of liquid dish detergent.  Then pull the plug and hope for the best.  If you notice a foul odor emanating from the disposal, below is a video that shows you how to solve this problem.




Bathroom Backup

As bad as the kitchen sink can be when it comes to holiday backups, the bathroom can be even worse.  This is largely due to such things as grooming products, cosmetics and hair.  If any of your guests bring along with them infants or tots it is a certainty that they will also tote disposable diapers, which many people believe can be flushed.  (Mainly because it says so on the package.)  Toddlers are also renown for flushing toys and other objects down the commode.  So you need to keep a weather eye on them as well.

If the toilet does become clogged, don’t panic.  Below is a description of how to deal with this dilemma.

When it comes to sink clogs, the last thing you want to do is reach for a caustic drain cleaner.  (In fact if you have young children around I wouldn’t even have these products in the house at all.) 

Step #1: Remove the drain and clean it out.
Many times the clog is either in the drain or just below it where you can fish it out with a pair of needle nosed pliers.

Step #2: Remove the P-Trap
If it is further down the drain than that, then I recommend that you watch the video below to learn how to remove the Popup Assembly.  Any clog located beyond that point will require you to first attempt to plunge and then snake the drain.



The problem with caustic drain cleaners is not only are they dangerous to handle and use, but they don’t just dissolve the clog, they also tend to erode the pipes as well.  The cost of hiring a plumber to snake your drain is preferable to having him tear open a wall or floor to replace a burst pipe.  Also bear in mind that if improperly handled, caustic drain cleaners can also land you in the ER. 

If you absolutely, positively want to try to soften the clog, here is a recipe for a non-toxic drain cleaner that you can try.

First you need to drain all the standing water out of the bowl.  Then add a box of baking soda and a half bottle of vinegar into the toilet or sink and let it stand for several hours or overnight. .  This mixture will immediately start to foam.  After allowing the baking soda/vinegar mixture to do its thing all night long, try pouring a bucket of hot water into the bowl (or sink) and flushing the toilet, followed by one more round of plunging if necessary.  If this doesn’t get the job done, it’s time to call in the professionals.


With a little foresight and a handy backup plan you and your guests should be able to get through the holiday without yours truly having to come down the chimney.  So here’s wishing you a safe and happy holiday from the doctor of Plumbology.

Bill Aldridge is the Doctor of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing tips and how-to videos, go to http://aldridgesonsplumbing.com
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Saturday, November 30, 2013

Signs of a Sewer Clog

By Bill Aldridge

If your home is more than 30 years old then chances are that it has a cast iron sewer line.  While these old warhorses of the plumbing industry had their time and place, the problem is that iron rusts.  This means that over the years these lines begin to degrade and will inevitably clog, necessitating the kind of intervention that takes a backhoe and can leave your yard looking like the trenches systems of WWI.  That’s the bad news.  The good news is that the entire repair should take no more than a few days by a licensed plumbing company and you don’t need to start tearing up the yard until you see obvious signs of a backup.

The bad news is that once the line does begin to clog you definitely don’t want to stick your head in the sand and assume that the problem will go away.  If anything it will quickly get worse and worse until it is all but impossible to empty a sink or flush a toilet without the water backing up.  In fact, the toilet is one of the first signs you will usually see of an impending problem, since it has a direct path to the sewer and is connected to one of the biggest lines in the house.


Other systems in the bathroom such as the bathtub and shower will also quickly become unusable in the event of a sewer stoppage and no amount of plunging will fix the problem.   However, it doesn’t hurt to check to see whether the tub drain is clogged, especially if there are no other obvious signs of a backup elsewhere.  See the video below to learn how to fix this problem.



Other symptoms of a blockage can include one or more of the following:

1.      When you flush the toilet water comes up in the bathtub.
2.      When you are using the sink next to the toilet, air bubbles start emanating from the toilet.
3.      When you run the dishwasher or the washing machine, the toilet overflows.
4.      A persistent gurgling sound that occurs after you use the washing machine or dishwasher.
5.      Foul odors emanating from more than one sink.

While these symptoms could be signs of other problems, such as air being trapped in the system or a blockage somewhere in the system, if the toilets are not functioning properly then you should definitely call in a plumber.  If you have a main line clean out, you can check for a clog by opening the clean out and visually inspecting for any water or waste that could be collecting there.  If water is either standing in the pipe or water comes out of the pipe the moment you remove the cap, then you definitely have a main line blockage.



Having a blockage does not necessarily mean that the sewer has collapsed or is irretrievably blocked.  Just like your household plumbing, sewer lines that have become blocked can sometimes be cleared with a sewer drain snake.  All manners of things that shouldn’t be flushed down the toilet but are, including diapers, toys and the occasional towel can form a clog that needs to be cleared out by a professional.  Tree roots can also find egress into lines that can eventually slow and even stop the flow of water. 

Even if the sewer itself does become compromised, requiring replacement, this is still cheaper than letting the system back up to the point where water and/or raw sewage backs up into the home which will entail even more costly remediation after the sewer line is replaced.  The best way to avoid any worst case scenario is to call in a licensed plumber as soon as you detect any potential backup.  The earlier you catch a backup, the easier it is to isolate, identify and remedy.  Waiting will only run the risk of creating a problem that can only be solved with heavy machinery and a crew.

Bill Aldridge is the Doctor of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville. Florida.  For more helpful plumbing tips and how-to videos, go to http://aldridgesonsplumbing.com




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Friday, November 22, 2013

Why it’s important to hire a licensed plumbing contractor

By Bill Aldridge

A Plumber at work.
A Plumber at work. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
If you scan the newsfeeds like I do every day then you see all kinds of crazy stories about people getting burned by unlicensed contractors.  Like most people, the motivation behind hiring an unlicensed contractor has to do with saving money.  While this is an excellent reason to look before you leap, more often than not the people who hire unlicensed contractors wind up paying more instead of less.  This is due to the fact that while unlicensed contractors talk a good game many wind up being unable or unwilling to complete the job. 

Case in point:
3 unlicensed Contractors Banned in N Dakota
Nelson received $40,825 from three consumers to repair sewer lines and install heating and cooling systems, but failed to properly install the appliances or finish the projects. He has been criminally charged with 19 counts of failure to have a plumber's license.

What will happen here is that the homeowner or business owner will now be forced to pay twice for the same job.  While this sounds like a case of a hard lesson learned, this is by no means the worst case scenario.  Worse than having an unlicensed contractor abscond with the deposit or do a partial repair would be for them to perform the job improperly, in which case either of the following two conditions will prevail:

      1.      The repair will have to be repaired
      2.      The repair will fail and cause damage to the structure.

In either of the above mentioned situations the cost to rectify the problems created by an unlicensed contractor can be extremely expensive.  In many cases the damage done isn’t covered under the homeowner’s policy and you can rest assured that the unlicensed contractor doesn’t have any.  More importantly, there is a better way to get the job done while saving money at the same time.  You see, just as licensed contractors such as I have to put in long hours of study and practical experience to become licensed, knowing how to choose the right contractor for the job is an acquired skill as well.

Step 1: The Pre-Interview
With the advent of the Internet you don’t have to take a contractor’s word that they are honest, courteous and reliable.  You can check out their credentials at the click of a mouse.  To start off, do a search and start checking out plumber websites.  See if they have any videos that tell you what they are all about, as well as testimonials from customers.  Next go to Google Local and type in the name of their business and see for yourself if they have any positive or negative reviews by former customers.  If they have a blog, read a few posts so that you will get to know the type of people with whom you will be dealing.  You will be surprised at what you can learn online nowadays.

Step 2: The Phone Interview
Before allowing prospective contractors to set foot inside your door, you should ask if they are licensed and how much liability insurance they carry.  The last thing you want is to have your property damaged during a repair only to find out that the contractor is either not insured or under insured.

Step 3: The Interview
Once you feel comfortable about your choice of contractors, line up a few and invite them over.  When asking for a quote, make sure that it is in writing.  Also make sure that you ask them about their experience with the intended repair, as well as he length of time they estimate it will take to complete the job.  Also ask the contractor if the quote includes all materials or whether you will be charged an additional fee for needed parts and supplies after the fact. 

Step 4: Permitting
While many plumbing jobs do not require a permit to be pulled, some do.  If you are unsure, make sure you ask the prospective contractor s if a permit is going to be required, who is going to pull the permit, and whether you will have to miss time from work in order to let the inspector onto your property.

Step5: References
While a plumber’s website may have a number of glowing testimonials, it is always a good idea to also ask any potential contractor for three references that you can call.  Don’t assume that the clean cut, soft-spoken young man that shows up to give you a quote is going to be the person tasked to do the work.  You could be in for a rude awakening.  When calling a contractor’s references, ask if the plumbers sent to do the repair were courteous.  Did they arrive promptly?  Did they clean up after themselves?  Also do not be afraid to ask point blank if there was any reason that they would be reluctant to work with this contractor in the future.  While getting a deal on a repair or remodeling job might look good on paper, if the contractor is consistently late, if their subcontractors are noisy or messy, or if the repair or remodeling leaves a lot to be desired, then you could find out after the fact that maybe the lowest price isn’t always the best deal.

Step 6: The Contract
Once you select a contractor with which to work, you need to see a contract that defines the task in its entirety.  All the I’s need to be dotted and the T’s need to be crossed.  If there is anything in the job description that seems a little fuzzy, or if the contractor is unwilling to put any part of the repair or remodel in writing, then it’s time to move onto another candidate.  They don’t call them contractors for nothing.  If it isn’t in the contract then you can rest assured that it is not covered.  Period.

The bottom line is that if you master the skill of choosing the right contractor then you will always be able to save money in the long run.  Since most people own their home for many years, this little policy will always pay big dividends.  And that’s like money in the bank.

Bill Aldridge is the Doctor of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing tips and helpful how-to videos, visit http:// aldridgesonsplumbing.com



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Thursday, November 7, 2013

Some Like it Hot

By bill Aldridge

Water heater sm

In my previous blog, “The Gargoyle in the Garage,” I wrote about the utility guzzling monster called a water heater that can devour up to twenty five percent of your home’s energy.  Other than replacing an old water heater with a newer more energy efficient model, there is one other way to put this beast on a leash: Reduce the water temperature.

The first thing you will want to do is determine to what temperature your water heater is already set.  To do this you will need to use a little kitchen tech.  Go ask your wife if you can borrow a candy thermometer.  Don’t worry macho man, she will know what it is you are seeking.  Once you fetch it, go to the faucet that’s closest to the water heater and run the water for about a minute.  This will allow the cooler water standing in the pipes to exit so that you can more accurately judge the temperature setting.  Hold the thermometer under the flow for thirty seconds or so until the mercury in the thermometer stops rising.  Then read the temp.  If the temperature is 120 degrees Fahrenheit, then this is the setting that nearly every manufacturer recommends.  If the temperature is higher than 120, then either you have an older dishwasher without a preheater in your home, or the thermostat on your water heater is set way too high.  (It’s probably cheaper in the long run to invest in a more energy-efficient dishwasher if the former is the case.) 

If you do need to reset the thermostat and you have a gas water heater, the process is simplicity itself.  Look for the dial located on the front of the gas control. (It us usually either red or black) To adjust your water heater simply rotate the dial to a slightly cooler setting and then come back in about six hours to perform the cookie thermometer test once again.  Repeat as needed until the temperature is registering anywhere from 115 to 120 degrees.



If you have an electric water heater, the procedure is a bit more complicated. First of all you will need to go to the breaker box and throw the switch labeled “Water Heater” in order to kill the juice to the unit.  Next you will have to remove an access panel or two (if you happen to have a dual element heater) and pull the insulation to one side so you can see the thermostat.  (It should have temperature readings clearly visible.)  It may also have a plastic cover that you will need to remove.  The thermostat adjusting screw should be located just above the element.  You will need a small standard screwdriver to adjust the temp. Make sure you replace the cover and redistribute the insulation to as close to the way you found it as possible. Then reinstall the access panel(s) and switch back on the power.  Wait at least six hours before retesting the water temp.

When it comes to water temperature, having the temp set too high not only wastes money, it can also be dangerous, particularly if you have small children at home.  Any setting at or above 130 can produce second degree burns even on adults.   Many people find that a setting of 110-155 degrees is not only sufficient for washing and bathing, but it saves them money month in and month out.  In fact the only time that you ever want to set a water heater to 140 degrees is if and only if the water emanating out of it has a distinctly unpleasant aroma.  This could be caused by bacteria, which can be eliminated by turning the temperature up to 140.  Just remember to turn the temp back down before anyone uses the hot water in any sink or shower.  An hour or so at 140 should prove sufficient to eradicate any bacteria.  The hot water you get into by forgetting to turn the temp back to 110-120 could haunt you for the rest of your life.

Another money saving tip is to insulate the pipes that emanate from the top of the water heater.  The handy video below demonstrates how to perform this task.



Bill Aldridge is the Doctor of Plumbology at Aldridge & Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing hints and how-to videos, visit http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com



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Saturday, October 19, 2013

The Last Costume You Want to See on Halloween

By Bill Aldridge

A Plumber at work.
You can’t help but smile as the neighborhood tykes parade around in this season’s costumes.  But there is one costume you can do without this holiday season and that’s the guy who comes to your door dressed as a plumber.  Be it Halloween, Thanksgiving or Christmas, the holidays bring with them a veritable cornucopia of holiday dishes that have been passed down from generation to generation.  The problem with many holiday cooks is that they also try to pass down the remnants of these dishes through the garbage disposal, which is where they guy in the plumber costume usually makes an appearance.  Below I have created a list of holiday no-no’s that are designed to keep you from making your local plumber

The Perils of Pumpkin

Believe it or not, more than a billion pounds of pumpkin are produced every year in the US, many to be made into jack-o-lanterns and pumpkin pies galore.  While these tasty treats are designed to brighten up the holidays, one thing that won’t is paying the plumber overtime to unstop your drain during the holidays.  The problem with pumpkin pulp is that it is a gooey mess that once down the drain will quickly harden into a mass that is a chore for even a seasoned professional to clear.  And don’t think that flushing it down the toilet is a better solution.  All that will do is make sure the clog gets lodged deep down the drain.  The only solution to the perils of pumpkin is to make like Lucy and Linus, by scooping out the pulp onto newspaper and then bagging it to take out with the trash.  (You didn’t say you were gonna kill it!”)

Don’t be a Turkey this Thanksgiving

The reason that most plumbers never get to sit down to a Thanksgiving dinner is due to the fact that they are invariably called out to unstop drains year in and year out.  In fact, Thanksgiving is the busiest of all holiday seasons for plumbing professionals.  Why?  Simply because it is a foregone conclusion that any number of holiday guests and/or chefs are going to

The Ghost of Christmas Dinner Past

Being home for the holidays also means preparing Christmas dinner for family and friends.  It can also mean that clearing the dishes can easily wind up overwhelming your garbage disposal resulting in a call to yours truly.  If you don’t want to add another mouth to feed during the holidays, here are some things you need to beware:



*   Fat is not your friend – While gravy helps make the turkey go down better in people, when it comes to plumbing the opposite is generally the case.  Anything containing fat, such as gravy boats, plates and serving platters need to be wiped clean with a paper towel before being washed in the sink.  Even then you want to use plenty of hot water before, during and after doing the holiday dishes.  That’s because any fat left in the pipes can quickly congeal into a blockage that requires a snake to clear.  One of the remedial steps is to fill your sink with hot water and a few drops of  liquid detergent, then pull the stopper to flush out the pipes after the dishes are done.

* Don’t give your disposal indigestion – While the modern garbage disposal is a wonderful invention, it was never designed to eat everything.  While most people know to avoid putting bones, gristle or other hard to grind substances into the disposal, they may not be aware that these devices also do not like to be fed a diet of celery, poultry skins, potato and onion peels, all of which can be hard to break down.  Disposals also need an occasional deep cleaning in order to eliminate odor.  (Below is a video that shows you how to eliminate “Stinky Disposal Syndrome” from your home.)

Plumbing, FTW
* Is stuffing going to stuff your pipes? – As a rule anything that is pulpy, such as stuffing, pumpkin flesh and squash can form a paste that can quickly gum up the works.  Just like pancake batter (another substance you should never pour down the drain), once past the disposal, these substances can quickly swell up and clog any drain.  Again, the solution is not to put these substances into the disposal.

* The extended family can also prove to be a strain on your plumbing.  While you can’t exactly read relatives the riot act, you can make sure that in their effort to help you clear the holiday dishes that they don’t inadvertently break any of the rules set above.  (That is if you can get them to help with the dishes.)

Bill Aldridge is one of the Doctor’s of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing, a residential and commercial plumbing contractor located in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more information and helpful how-to videos visit their site at http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com

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Thursday, October 10, 2013

Is it Time to Buff Up Your Bathroom?

By Billy Aldridge

While other parts of the home may take precedence over the bathroom when it comes to scheduling a redo, buffing the bathroom is one way to add value and creature comfort to your home.  Particularly if your home is twenty or more years old, updating fixtures, appliances and toilets can not only beautify your home, but it can also pay for itself in water and energy savings. 

Say Tata to the Toilet

Sorry to say it, but if your toilet was built before 1990, then it can be one of the costliest appliances in your home when it comes to water consumption.  Back in the 50’s it was common for toilets to use as much as 7 gallons per flush.  By the 80’s the norm was closer to 4 gallons.  Today’s high efficiency toilets can use less than a gallon and a half per flush and help homeowners save as much as 16,000 gallons of water annually.

High Efficiency Toilets (HETs) should be able to flush using at least 20% less water than is mandated by law and should not need to be flushed more than once to do their job. They should require minimal cleaning with environmentally unfriendly detergents. They should flush quietly. They should be user friendly and comfortable. And they should be available in a wide variety of design styles that fit with the existing (or future) bathroom décor. These are the guiding principles that drive our design of high-performance, High Efficiency TOTO Toilets.



Water You Waiting For?

Old bathrooms also have old pipes, many of which can be affected by hard water which causes scale which leads to decreased water pressure.  If you turn on the shower and receive no more than a trickle, this is due to scale.  Scale not only reduces water flow, but it can also cause back pressure that can lead to a sudden failure in pipes, many of which are located behind the wall.  If you notice a water stain that can’t be traced to its source, it’s time to call in a plumber before that drip, drip turns into a torrent that can cost you far more than having a few pipes replaced.

Another energy demon is the traditional water heater, which is not only affected by the same scale buildup as your pipes, but this scale clings to the heating coils which in turn reduce their efficiency resulting in higher power bills.  Speaking of power bills, traditional water heaters can gobble up as much as 25% of your total monthly electric consumption.  Today there are far more energy and space efficient heaters including tankless and hybrid systems.



Bathroom Tech

Another reason to consider giving the B-Room a makeover has to do with the fact that there are so many high tech additions now available to make tub time much more enjoyable.  There are all kinds of accoutrements to consider from whirlpool tubs and walk-in tubs to singing showerheads and TVs built directly into the mirror.

High Tech Walk-in Tubs include Hydrotherapy Air jet Systems and Waterjet Massage Systems available from Tub King that are designed for people with mobility concerns, but are great for anyone who want to enjoy the benefits of a whirlpool bath. http://www.tubking.com/walk_in_tubs.html

There is a singing showerhead called the Moxie by Kohler that can be programmed through your Bluetooth. Since water and electricity don’t mix, the unit is wireless and rechargeable.  http://www.us.kohler.com/us/Moxie%22-Showerhead-+-Wireless-Speaker/content/CNT16200089.htm

Relaxing in the tub takes on a whole new meaning when you can watch a movie while you soak.  Called Mirrorvue Mirror Television, this product can be installed as a vanity mirror or directly in the bath enclosure.  If you’re worried about this tub TV steaming up, the folks at Evervue guarantee the screen to be fog free. So you will receive a crystal clear picture no matter how hot you like your water. http://www.evervuetv.com/mv.html

Other than aesthetics and energy savings, remaking the bathroom can also add real value to your home.  While a typical bathroom remodel can cost anywhere from $15,000 to $50,000, the average cost that is recouped when you sell your home is 60% or more.  When you factor in the added enjoyment your family will get from an upgraded bathroom, buffing up your bathroom might be worth looking into in the near future.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing located in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful hints and how-to videos visit their site at http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com


Monday, September 30, 2013

Down the Drain DIY

By Billy Aldridge

Being a plumber means getting to thrill vicariously at all the DIY shows on TV.  Sure, watching guys like Norm Abram go through the paces of rebuilding this or that old home is always an inspiration.  While the DIY show genre was almost single-handedly inspired by Norm’s predecessor and mentor, Bob Villa, every single DIY spinoff is hosted by a dyed-in-the-wool professional with years of on the job experience.  So if I was going to throw my hat into the ring to create a DIY plumbing show that showed it like it is, I wouldn’t spin it as a “Fix this Plumbing” concept at all. No, I think a more informative and vastly more entertaining angle would be to create a series that showcases the unfortunate results of people who thought they could save some money by doing it themselves.  I call the concept “Down the Drain DIY.” Here is an episode that I have cobbled together from doing a little research online.


Our upstairs hall toilet sprung a leak recently, emitting a steady hiss punctuated by frequent whooshes of the pump refilling the tank -- a bit like having Darth Vader lurking in the hall. We don't use it much, so I just turned off the water to the toilet and silenced the evil Jedi. But with visitors arriving shortly from the UK, it occurred to me that access to a loo that didn't involve traipsing through our bedroom might be preferred by all parties.
I was ready to call a plumber, but my dad scoffed on the phone. "An easy fix. Just needs a new fill valve," he assured me. So off I went to Home Depot where yes indeed, Mr. Orange Apron fixed me up with a replacement fill valve for about $10. (something my dad continues to call a 'ball cock' even though they no longer have balls and don't cock. It's been replaced by something that's more like a 'shank donut' but honestly, that doesn't sound any less dirty.) The Force was strong in me. I imagined my light saber emerging from the end of the fill valve and beheading a plumber. Take that!
Once back from her trip to the big box store, our heroine realized that the instructions that came with the parts were less than adequate.  Undaunted, she pressed on and completed the repair to the best of her ability.  Then she opened the shutoff valve.

I turned on the water... and a steady stream cascaded onto the floor.  I turned off the water. I could still hear a little hiss, like it wasn't all the way off, but it looked like it was off. I turned the handle a little harder. No change. Harder. The water started coming out of the hose faster. I turned it the other way. No change. Turned it back. The stream became a torrent.
Suddenly, a fill valve was the least of my problems. I had no idea where the main water cutoff for the house was. I emptied the linen closet onto the floor, ran to the phone and called the first plumber in the yellow pages that said 24×7 emergency service, grabbed a couple of bowls and raced back upstairs. Where I sat for over an hour, bailing water into the tub at the rate of one bowl every 30 seconds or so. I believe that counts as a workout.

The moral of the story is you need to know how and where to shut off the water to your home if you don’t want to wind up getting hosed. (Below is a video that shows you step-by-step how to locate and turn off the water main.)



While do-it-yourself is all the rage, the bottom line for many homeowners is that unless you know your limits, you need to have a fallback plan in place and you absolutely need to have your friendly neighborhood plumber’s phone number on speed dial the next time you get the urge to DIY.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge and sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing tips and step-by-step DIY videos, go to http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com




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Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Fall Back on Plumbing Basics

By Billy Aldridge

With Fall only a week away, this week I thought I’d fall back on some plumbing basics.  When most people think about plumbing, they normally associate it with the household fixtures that let water into and out of the house, such as sinks, tubs and showers, toilets, water heaters, washing machine and dishwasher.  What they don’t consider is the unseen world of pipes and vents that are out of sight and mind behind the walls and under their feet that make all those fixtures do their thing.  In fact the only time that the average homeowner has any interest in their home’s plumbing is when something either backs up or springs a leak.  In point of fact, there are actually two plumbing systems contained in your house, one designed to bring water in and the other designed to let wastewater out. 

In With the Good Water

Everyone talks about water entering their home.  But it doesn’t enter so much as fly.  (If you’ve ever seen water spewing from an open hydrant you get my point.) This is due to the fact that city water is under pressure.  This allows it to travel across town around corners and uphill.  It also permits your neighbors to open a tap or flush a toilet without noticeably affecting your home’s water pressure.   But it’s also more pressure than your home appliances and fixtures can accommodate.  I mean when you turn on the shower you don’t want to have the water come out of the shower head with enough force to start peeling the tiles off the backsplash, do you?

The municipal water company typically sets the pressure at 100 psi or higher.   This is necessary to deliver water at pressure to fire hydrants, multi-story office buildings and for other high demand customers.  However, when it comes to your home needs, the maximum recommended pressure is 80 psi or less.  Therefore a pressure regulator is installed that is designed to protect both the house’s supply line and the fixtures and appliances inside your home.  If your home is experiencing either an excess of pressure or a lack of water pressure, this is one of the first places to look, since this one device controls the inflow of water to your entire house.

The other place is the cutoff valve, which is usually located near the curb.  The cutoff valve is one part of the plumbing that I advise every homeowner to become familiar since it can save you thousands of dollars in water damage should a pipe burst in your home.  (See the video below for more information.)



Once the water makes its way from the street to your home it flows through a meter which measures how much water you and your family use.  All water that enters your home comes in cold and is supplied to every sink, toilet, tap, irrigation system, dishwasher, washing machine bathtub and shower.  There are also water cutoffs located on or adjacent to every plumbing fixture in your home.  You need to not only familiarize yourself with their location and use, but you also need to exercise these cutoff valves so that they will be operational should you ever have a leak.  Otherwise you will be forced to shut off water to the entire house.
The cold water is also sent to your water heater, which then heats the water before sending it to every hot water tap in the house.  The hot water heater is also tasked with the responsibility of setting the water temperature.  Normally the water temperature is kept between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  
Appliances such as the dishwasher that requires higher water temps usually have an internal water heating system that boost the water temperature to the proper level.



Out With the Bad

Whether your home plumbing is sewer or septic-based, all drainage is gravity fed.  This means that all pipes lead down which tends to pull waste along.  These pipes in turn lead to the sewer and ultimately to the municipal treatment system.  Sounds simple doesn’t it.  It is in principle.  But you have to factor in the fact that if your home’s plumbing was that straightforward, not only would you have waste flowing out of your home, but you would also have waste gases flowing into it. (And nobody wants that.)

That’s why your house comes equipped with a sophisticated system of vents, traps and clean outs that are designed to direct the flow of wastewater and gas such that it all heads out of your home.  In the first place if air wasn’t provided by the vents, no water would flow through the pipes.  Did you ever stick your thumb over a straw and pull the straw out of your soda?  That’s what would happen if air were not allowed to flow into your home’s pipes.  It would create a vacuum that would force you to siphon the water away. 

Traps are also vital to proper drainage.  Traps are designed to allow water to flow yet retain enough to prevent sewer gas from entering your home.  There is a trap associated with every fixture in your home, including every sink, tub and toilet.  One of the most conspicuous is located under any sink in your home. It’s the S-shaped section of pipe just below the basin. The other reason these traps are there are to collect hair, dirt and grease in order to prevent clogged drains. (See video below.)




Even if you aren’t the do-it-yourself type, having a basic knowledge of your home’s plumbing system can save you a lot of money should any part of your house’s plumbing system fail.  After all, when it comes to fallback plans, not having one is plumb crazy.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida. For more helpful plumbing tips and how-to videos, go to 

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Kitchen Nightmares

By Billy Aldridge

The cast of Kitchen ConfidentialWe’ve all seen Chef Gordon Ramsay’s TV Show Kitchen Nightmares where he travels the highways and  byways of the USA looking to help struggling restaurants keep their doors open.  While a fan of the show myself, I want to talk to you about another kind of kitchen nightmare that I run into all too often in my line of work.  That’s the one where people try to save money when they redo their kitchen by either attempting to do the work on their own, or by hiring unqualified contractors who promise to do the work for less than a licensed and bonded professional.

During the past few years I have been called in to repair everything from leaking fixtures and crumpling cabinetry to cracked countertops and at least one hole in the floor that was caused when an ill-supported kitchen sink fell with a thud taking the PVC pipe to which it was attached and ramming it straight through the bottom of the cabinet.  I have also been regaled with stories from homeowners about work that was started and never completed, as well as the occasional tale of woe about a contractor who was paid in advance and was never heard from again.

Before you subject yourself to a lot of unnecessary grief, allow me to share with you my list of the top 5 things you need to do before you remodel your kitchen.

      1.       Remodeling is a lot like surgery.  When it comes to doing major work on your home, trying to cut 
      costs is a lot like trying to save money on having your gall bladder removed.  Would you rather have the cheapest or the best surgeon perform the operation?  That being said, just as there are some quacks in the medical field, there are also a number of slipshod contractors in the kitchen remodeling business.  Just as in an operating theater, you are going to need to work with a number of people in order to get your kitchen redo done.  These can include everyone from a designer and cabinet installer, to a tile layer, a plumber and an electrician.  Therefore you need to have a protocol that will allow you to weed out the chaff from the wheat.   So the first thing you will want to see are the contractors credentials, including such things as their license and insurance, to examples of their work and references that you can call.  You should also ask how long they have been in the business and check out any contractor online to see if complaints have been filed against them.  Just as with physicians, never hesitate to get a second opinion.

Another TV Show called This Old House offers these helpful hints on questions to ask when checking up on
This Old House
This Old House (Photo credit: eschipul)
 a contractor’s references: 
1. What were the contractor's work habits? Did he show up on time and prepared to supervise the subs?
2. Did he stick to the scope of the work and cleanup plan as outlined in the contract? Were any unauthorized changes of materials or details made?
3. Did your project stay on or close to budget? Did materials arrive on time? Did he keep you up to date on his progress or potential delays?
4. Did anything go wrong? And if so, how — and how quickly — was the crisis resolved?

      2.       You only get what you pay for.  At least that’s how the story goes.  Before you start cutting checks you need to establish what your budget is going to allow and you need to find people willing to work within your budget.  This is also another way to determine whether you are working with contractors who have your best interests at heart.   Any contractor who starts a conversation by trying to upsell you is probably not the right one for the job.  Just bear in mind that remodeling the kitchen even at its most economical is going to set you back some folding green.  It can cost you as much as buying a new car.  In an excerpt from a blog by Consumer Reports entitled , “10 cost-saving tips to a great kitchen,”

Consumer Reports“Get ready for sticker shock: Even a minor kitchen remodel now costs more than $19,000, on 
average, according to Remodeling Magazine’s annual Cost vs. Value report. The average for a midrange major remodel comes in at more than $57,000, while an upscale redo with all the trimmings costs a whopping $110,938. Those are rich figures by anyone’s reckoning. But you can pay far less and still get the kitchen of your dreams. You simply have to know how and where to cut.” 

      3.       The Internet is your friend.  Speaking of the web, one sure way to save money is by taking your search for cost savings online.  On the web you can comparison shop for appliances, including prices and reviews, download handy apps (such as those profiled on http://kitchen-design-software-review.toptenreviews.com/), as well as perusing helpful articles, blogs and videos from those who have been there and done that.


      4.       They’re here!!! Once you bite the bullet and get on with the show, you need to prepare yourself to work around and with the crew hired to do the deed.   This first means you need to get out of the way so they can get on with it.  Hovering like a hawk is one of the best ways to slow down a process that is going to take more time than you might think to complete. 

Three R's of Keeping the Crew Happy (Also from This Old House)
1. Refreshments: You don't have to cater three squares a day, but at least offer a thermos of coffee or a cooler with soft drinks. They'll appreciate it.
2. Responsibility: The crew can't work efficiently if you're in the way. Ask questions, but don't overwhelm them with chatter. And teach kids and pets the meaning of KEEP OUT. 
3. Respect: Say good morning, good night, and good job when appropriate. And, please: Don't ask if they've met any desperate housewives lately. The appliances can be top-of-the-line, the finishes the most expensive around, but if the space doesn't work, it's money down the brand-new In-Sink-Erator.

       5.       Who you gonna call?  One of the other things you need to ask from every contractor you hire is whom should you call if a problem does crop up or a crew fails to arrive.  Most of the time the smiling person that hands you the contract is not going to be the person that performs the work.  Hopefully the company has a well-oiled customer service person tasked with handling any issue that arises from a crew in the field.  The last thing you want to do is call with a problem only to get shuttled directly to voicemail.  Then the wait begins. 

Investing in a kitchen redo is not only a way to add value to your home but it is also something that you and your family will be able to enjoy for years to come.     It is also one of the most complicated and potentially perilous undertakings in which you are likely to engage.  So before you wind up buying into a kitchen nightmare of your own take the time to plan the work and find people who are committed to working the plan to its timely completion.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  See more of Billy’s helpful how-to videos at http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com


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Wednesday, August 7, 2013

The Plumbing Detective - Part 2

By Billy Aldridge

In our last episode of the Plumbing detective I told you how to find and fix hidden leaks that commonly occur in the bathroom.  Today I am here to show you the ins and outs of detecting leaks that occur outside of or under your home. 

Has your water bill suddenly gone sky high for no rhyme or reason? Ever notice a persistent wet spot in the yard or adjacent to your home’s foundation?  Or, have you lately begun to hear a subtle hissing noise that you can’t quite put your finger on?  Either of these clues is trying to point the finger at a water bandit that if left undetected could potentially cost you thousands of dollars to repair.

If your suspicions have been aroused by any of the above, run do not walk to the nearest phone and call your friendly neighborhood plumber.  We are experts when it comes to running down a hidden leak in swimming pools and water supply lines, beneath concrete slabs and inside sewer pipes.  If the leak is subtle it could take a bit of technology to track down the culprit.  If it is more pronounced you should first find and close the water shutoff valve to the house. (see video below)


What you don’t want to do is start tearing up the pool deck or begin digging up your front yard looking for a hidden leak.  That can not only cause you to anger your neighbors, but it could also cause more harm than good.  In order to find hidden leaks, plumbing professionals use a host of modern equipment including fiber optic scopes, electromagnetic pipeline locators and other devices that are designed to be able to detect leaks non-destructively.  Once located, it may be a matter of simply pulling up a floor tile or two or open up a slab at the precise location of the leak in order to repair a pipe.  Either way, a professional is going to be able to find and repair a hidden leak much faster and with minimal disruption to property.  Some of the equipment that can be employed to detect hidden leaks is listed below.

·         Electromagnetic Line Locators operate by locating either a background signal or by locating a signal introduced into the utility line using a transmitter.  EM utility locators are used for tracing metallic pipes and utility cables and clearing drilling and excavation locations. These utility locators consist of a separate transmitter and receiver. The transmitter emits a radio frequency EM field that induces secondary fields in nearby metallic pipes and cables. The receiver detects these fields and accurately locates and traces the pipes, often to distances over 200 feet from the transmitter. Modern utility locators are also capable of providing approximate depth estimates of the pipes and sweeping areas for 60 Hz signal emanating from electrical lines. /
     
          

      The Gen-Ear is a simplified, more economical tool with stronger sound amplification than other systems. Use it to pinpoint water leaks in residential and commercial water lines, whether they are under concrete slabs, in walls, swimming pools and hot tubs. The compact amplifier fits easily in the palm of your hand. It provides noise-free amplification with built-in preset audio filters, so you don’t have guess what settings to use. And the high performance headphones with noise cancellation features block out interference from surrounding ambient noise. The ground sensor listens for the gurgling or hammering of water escaping from a cracked pipe under concrete, asphalt, or tile. For soft surfaces like grass or carpet, use the probe rods. Or, for above ground pipes or hydrants, you can use both the probe rods or the magnet attachment. For especially hard to find leaks, the Sound Amplification Module adds air to the line, increasing water pressure. This amplifies the leak sounds, making them easier to locate. 



·         Inspect impossible to reach places with the ProVision Fiberoptic scope—the ultimate hand tool for diagnosis and exploration. The flexible cable fits in openings as small as 1/2-inch in diameter allowing you to look behind walls, down into drains, inside engines, or hundreds of other inaccessible places without costly demolition or disassembly. Adjustable focus, omni-directional cable bends in every direction and the light switch is pressure activated making the PV100 functional and simple to operate. Sealed lens and cable are submersible making them perfect for plumbing applications. 18-inch flexible cable affords great range while the powerful lamp illuminates dark crevices.



      Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) is a geophysical
      method that uses radar pulses to image the subsurface. This nondestructive method uses electromagnetic radiation in the microwave band of the radio spectrum, and detects the reflected signals from subsurface structures. GPR can be used in a variety of media, including rock, soil, ice, fresh water, pavements and structures. It can detect objects, changes in material, 
      and voids and cracks. GPR uses high-frequency radio waves and transmits into the ground. When the wave 
      hits a buried object or a boundary with different dielectric constants, the receiving antenna records variations in the reflected return signal. The principles involved are similar to reflection seismology, except that electromagnetic energy is used instead of acoustic energy, and reflections appear at boundaries with different dielectric constants instead of acoustic impedances. The depth range of GPR is limited by the electrical conductivity of the ground, the transmitted center frequency and the radiated power.

The old adage “out of sight, out of mind,” can come back to haunt homeowners from time to time, since the majority of their wiring and plumbing is located inside walls, as well as under lawns, foundations and driveways.  Once sprung, a leak typically starts slow and then gains in momentum until it makes its presence known, sometimes in a dramatic fashion.  It is not uncommon for a plumber to be summoned to a home only to find water shooting several stories into the air from the front yard.  When this happens it’s time to bring in the backhoe and start digging.  For those who heed the warnings a bit sooner, other less expensive options can many times be employed. 

Think that leaks are a small problem?  According to recent studies as much as thirteen percent of all the water used in this country is lost in leakage.  That equates to hundreds of billions of gallons lost each and every year in the USA.  While costly this doesn’t take into consideration the collateral damage caused in terms of water damage and erosion caused by leaks. It also isn’t uncommon for leaks to cause mold inside walls and under floors that are not only expensive to eradicate but can also be a health hazard.
So if you suspect that you have a hidden leak, don’t wait until it causes untold damage to your home.  Call out your friendly neighborhood plumbing detective and stop water bandits in their tracks.


Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing tips and how-to videos, go to http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com