The Plumbing Detective - Part 2

By Billy Aldridge

In our last episode of the Plumbing detective I told you how to find and fix hidden leaks that commonly occur in the bathroom.  Today I am here to show you the ins and outs of detecting leaks that occur outside of or under your home. 

Has your water bill suddenly gone sky high for no rhyme or reason? Ever notice a persistent wet spot in the yard or adjacent to your home’s foundation?  Or, have you lately begun to hear a subtle hissing noise that you can’t quite put your finger on?  Either of these clues is trying to point the finger at a water bandit that if left undetected could potentially cost you thousands of dollars to repair.

If your suspicions have been aroused by any of the above, run do not walk to the nearest phone and call your friendly neighborhood plumber.  We are experts when it comes to running down a hidden leak in swimming pools and water supply lines, beneath concrete slabs and inside sewer pipes.  If the leak is subtle it could take a bit of technology to track down the culprit.  If it is more pronounced you should first find and close the water shutoff valve to the house. (see video below)

What you don’t want to do is start tearing up the pool deck or begin digging up your front yard looking for a hidden leak.  That can not only cause you to anger your neighbors, but it could also cause more harm than good.  In order to find hidden leaks, plumbing professionals use a host of modern equipment including fiber optic scopes, electromagnetic pipeline locators and other devices that are designed to be able to detect leaks non-destructively.  Once located, it may be a matter of simply pulling up a floor tile or two or open up a slab at the precise location of the leak in order to repair a pipe.  Either way, a professional is going to be able to find and repair a hidden leak much faster and with minimal disruption to property.  Some of the equipment that can be employed to detect hidden leaks is listed below.

·         Electromagnetic Line Locators operate by locating either a background signal or by locating a signal introduced into the utility line using a transmitter.  EM utility locators are used for tracing metallic pipes and utility cables and clearing drilling and excavation locations. These utility locators consist of a separate transmitter and receiver. The transmitter emits a radio frequency EM field that induces secondary fields in nearby metallic pipes and cables. The receiver detects these fields and accurately locates and traces the pipes, often to distances over 200 feet from the transmitter. Modern utility locators are also capable of providing approximate depth estimates of the pipes and sweeping areas for 60 Hz signal emanating from electrical lines. /

     

          

      The Gen-Ear is a simplified, more economical tool with stronger sound amplification than other systems. Use it to pinpoint water leaks in residential and commercial water lines, whether they are under concrete slabs, in walls, swimming pools and hot tubs. The compact amplifier fits easily in the palm of your hand. It provides noise-free amplification with built-in preset audio filters, so you don’t have guess what settings to use. And the high performance headphones with noise cancellation features block out interference from surrounding ambient noise. The ground sensor listens for the gurgling or hammering of water escaping from a cracked pipe under concrete, asphalt, or tile. For soft surfaces like grass or carpet, use the probe rods. Or, for above ground pipes or hydrants, you can use both the probe rods or the magnet attachment. For especially hard to find leaks, the Sound Amplification Module adds air to the line, increasing water pressure. This amplifies the leak sounds, making them easier to locate. 

·         Inspect impossible to reach places with the ProVision Fiberoptic scope—the ultimate hand tool for diagnosis and exploration. The flexible cable fits in openings as small as 1/2-inch in diameter allowing you to look behind walls, down into drains, inside engines, or hundreds of other inaccessible places without costly demolition or disassembly. Adjustable focus, omni-directional cable bends in every direction and the light switch is pressure activated making the PV100 functional and simple to operate. Sealed lens and cable are submersible making them perfect for plumbing applications. 18-inch flexible cable affords great range while the powerful lamp illuminates dark crevices.

      Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) is a geophysical

      method that uses radar pulses to image the subsurface. This nondestructive method uses electromagnetic radiation in the microwave band of the radio spectrum, and detects the reflected signals from subsurface structures. GPR can be used in a variety of media, including rock, soil, ice, fresh water, pavements and structures. It can detect objects, changes in material, 

      and voids and cracks. GPR uses high-frequency radio waves and transmits into the ground. When the wave 

      hits a buried object or a boundary with different dielectric constants, the receiving antenna records variations in the reflected return signal. The principles involved are similar to reflection seismology, except that electromagnetic energy is used instead of acoustic energy, and reflections appear at boundaries with different dielectric constants instead of acoustic impedances. The depth range of GPR is limited by the electrical conductivity of the ground, the transmitted center frequency and the radiated power.

The old adage “out of sight, out of mind,” can come back to haunt homeowners from time to time, since the majority of their wiring and plumbing is located inside walls, as well as under lawns, foundations and driveways.  Once sprung, a leak typically starts slow and then gains in momentum until it makes its presence known, sometimes in a dramatic fashion.  It is not uncommon for a plumber to be summoned to a home only to find water shooting several stories into the air from the front yard.  When this happens it’s time to bring in the backhoe and start digging.  For those who heed the warnings a bit sooner, other less expensive options can many times be employed. 

Think that leaks are a small problem?  According to recent studies as much as thirteen percent of all the water used in this country is lost in leakage.  That equates to hundreds of billions of gallons lost each and every year in the USA.  While costly this doesn’t take into consideration the collateral damage caused in terms of water damage and erosion caused by leaks. It also isn’t uncommon for leaks to cause mold inside walls and under floors that are not only expensive to eradicate but can also be a health hazard.

So if you suspect that you have a hidden leak, don’t wait until it causes untold damage to your home.  Call out your friendly neighborhood plumbing detective and stop water bandits in their tracks.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing tips and how-to videos, go to http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com

The Plumbing Detective

By Billy Aldridge

Being a homeowner means sometimes having to make like a gumshoe, especially when it comes to hidden leaks.  Most leaks around the home are relatively easy to find.  Look for a wet spot or discoloration or listen carefully for a persistent drip, drip, drip behind a wall until the leak is located.  Other leaks, particularly those associated with shower enclosures can be particularly difficult to localize.  That’s when you need to call in the Plumbing Detective. 

Shower Power

Showers can be one of the worst offenders when it comes to leaks.  This is due to the fact that there are so 

many places from which a shower can spring a leak. Everything from the door, to the drain to the tile backsplash can develop nearly imperceptible leaks that can cause real damage behind the wall or to the subfloor.  If left unchecked this can also be a chief source of mold in the home. 

Signs of a leak can include such things as loose tiles, peeling paint, obvious signs of mold and any standing water on the floor after using the shower.  Once it seems that water is making its way beyond the shower enclosure, then it’s time to start doing a little detective work.  If the source of the leak appears to be emanating from the periphery of the enclosure and you see standing water on the floor every time the shower is used, then the likely culprit is the shower door or frame. 

Round Up the Usual Suspects

Sealing this kind of leak is one of the simplest fixes since all you need is a tube of caulk.  The hard part is localizing the leak itself.  To do that, splash a little water around the door and frame.  If you don’t see water oozing out the other side, wait a minute or two.  Water has a way of working its way through the tiniest or gaps.  But sometimes it takes a little time to do the deed.  Another source of door leaks can be a faulty gasket.  If the door has a rubber gasket or door sweep check these for cracks or gaps.  Once you determine the cause of the leak, simply replace any worn gaskets and/or cracked caulk and then test for water intrusion a second time just to make sure you haven’t missed anything.  Sometimes the shower could have multiple leaks, particularly if it is more than ten years old.

Down the Drain

Drain leaks can be even more insidious to detect, simply because the source of the leak is ought of sight and mind.  .  Even in prefabricated plastic or fiberglass shower stalls this kind of leak is not at all uncommon.  However, these leaks can be quite costly to repair if left unchecked.  It is not unusual to have to tear out a shower enclosure and replace the subflooring in homes where these leaks have been left to their own devices for months or years.  If the bathroom in question is on the first floor which happens to be on a concrete slab, it isn’t unusual for the leak to create water intrusion in adjoining rooms, all of which will need to be repaired once the leak is found and sealed.  If the bathroom in question is on the second floor, the ceiling on the room below may also need to be ripped out and replaced.  So any way you slice it, water won’t be the only thing going down the drain if your home has one of these leaks.

Detecting these leaks can be kind of tricky, since it isn’t always possible to see beneath the stall.  If the shower has an access panel, sometimes it is possible to see beneath the shower, or at least snake a fiber optic viewing scope beneath the drain. If it is impossible to see beneath the shower stall then the second way to detect if you have a drain leak is to plug the drain and then add just enough water to form a puddle around the drain.  Delineate the boundary of the puddle by placing a tube of toothpaste at the edge of the puddle.  Then walk away for five minutes or so and return to see if the water is still touching the tube.  If it is not then you have a leaky drain.  (Make sure the plug is fully engaged so that it doesn’t leak before you attempt this test.)

Replacing a leaking drain isn’t all that difficult.  To remove the existing drain, simply unscrew the flange that is located above the drain.  Remove and clean the flange.  Then set this aside.   Next, remove the drain and gasket and take the flange to any hardware store, plumbing supply house  or big box home center .  While your there, pick up a tube of silicone caulk.  You will want to apply a bead of this below the flange when you reassemble the drain.  Then it’s just a screwdriver job.

The Trouble with Tile

Last but not least on our rap sheet of leak perpetrators is tile, or more likely the caulk surrounding the tile.  If your bathroom has tile and the tile is anywhere in, on or under the tub, then it can and will deteriorate over time causing unwanted water intrusion.  Whether it is the thin-set holdiog the tile to the wall or the grout between the tiles, these need to be checked and sealed every now and then.   Loose tiles are a dead giveaway that you need to remove the tile and re-grout.  If a number of tiles are loose in any given area, or if the wall feels spongy to the touch beneath any removed tile, then it is time to replace the backer board before replacing any loose tiles.

While leaks are problematic, they don’t need to be catastrophic, provided that you catch them early and correct the situation.  Leave them to their own devices and these fleeing felons can cost you and your family much more than correcting a simple leak.  So don’t let these little leaks rob you blind.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge and Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For even more helpful plimbing tips and DIY videos, go to http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com

Time for Those Summertime Honey Dos

By Billy Aldridge

The heat is on in North Florida in July and August.  We’re talking flame broil here, with temperatures in the nineties most days.  That means that most of us guys are busy crowding the golf course at first light or lighting out before sunrise with rod and reel in hand.  Anything to avoid the heat of the day.  Of course on weekends this means spending way too much time indoors with nothing for your significant other to look at but you.  And you know what that inevitably leads to: The dreaded honey dos.  So to help you keep the peace at home during the dog days of summer, I have pulled together some simple plumbing DIY projects that can not only save you money, but also keep you off the wife’s radar.  You’ll thank me later.

      1.      Exercising Your Cutoff Valves – There are actually two types of cutoff valves in your home.  The first is the cutoff for the entire house and the second are the valves behind every sink, toilet, washing machine and dishwasher, as well as the ones atop the water heater.  The ones inside the home need to be exercised from time to time to keep them from jamming when you need them.  It’s a good idea to turn them on and off every couple of months to keep them in proper working order.  To do this you need to support the valve with one hand while turning the cutoff off and then back on.  If the valve is hard to turn or will not turn at all, do not attempt to use brute force, since this can break off the valve.  Simply grab a can of WD-40 or some other lubricant and give the valve a spritz.  Then wait for at least thirty minutes before trying to turn the valve once more.  If it still stubbornly refuses to budge you can have someone support the valve with their hand while you gently apply a wrench to try and free it. (And I stress gently.)  If that fails to do the trick you will need to have the valve replaced by a plumber.

      2.      Is your toilet a water hog? Utility bills being what they are, the last thing you want to do is donate any more of your hard earned money to the utility company. Since the toilet can be one of the thirstiest water hogs in the house, you need to be aware of the fact that if the system has a leak or the flapper is old and out of shape, then you are wasting water and with it your money.  There are two ways of detecting for leaks: by sight and by sound.  The way to see if your toilet is not sealing properly is to grab some food coloring from the kitchen and put a few drops into the toilet.  Do not flush it, rather walk away for ten minutes or so and then return to see if the water is clear.  If it is still tinted, then you don’t have a leak.  The other way is to flush the toilet, let it refill and then stand there for a few minutes to hear whether the water runs intermittently, indicating a poorly seated flapper.  Changing a toilet flapper is one of the simplest DIYs in the plumbing trade.  Below is a video designed to take you step-by-step through the entire process.

      3.      The Thing in the bathtub – It’s big, it’s hairy and it lives in your bathtub drain.  It likes nothing better than to hunker down and slow the water attempting to flow down the drain to a crawl. It will stop the flow altogether given half a chance.  While this bathroom menace might be gross, it’s also fairly easy to tame.  Due to the architecture of the standard bathroom drain, it has a propensity to gather and trap hair and soap into a ball that slowly but surely impedes the flow of water.  If you have noticed lately that it seems to take forever for the tub to empty after a bath or shower do not panic.  Most likely the trap just needs to be cleaned.

To accomplish this you will need a pair of needle nose pliers.  Start by removing the drain cover.  (See the video below for more details.) Once you have used the pliers to unscrew the cover, turn it over and clean it since it tends to be a collection point for gunk.  Then lay it to one side.  Next you should use the needle nose pliers to reach down the drain to fish out the hairball that has been causing the clog.  Throw the hairball away and with the cover removed, run the water to make sure that the drain is now clear.  Reassemble and go have a beer, you’ve earned it big guy.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge & Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For even more helpful plumbing tips and helpful DIY videos, visit http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com

Where Did You Go on Summer Vacation?

By Billy Aldridge

The kids are out of school, the boss has given you two weeks off and you’re looking forward to getting away from it all.  Before you pack the wife and kiddies in the car and head for the great outdoors, I’d like to share with you some recent articles I have come across that go to show you how plumbing problems can effect even the toniest resorts and most popular destinations.

All Bets are Off at the Flamingo Casino In Las Vegas

If you have ever visited the Las Vegas Strip then you can’t miss this pink neon lit landmark that’s located right across from Caesar’s Palace.  Made famous by the movie starring Warren Beatty a few years back, the Flamingo is the casino that put Vegas on the map.  However, a recent spate of plumbing problems have forced the resort to close a number of hotel rooms, their food court, the Cabaret Theater and one of their show bars beginning on July 15.  Management have stated publicly that they are unsure of when the work will be completed.  Performances at the Cabaret Theater have been cancelled and tickets refunded.  Guests scheduled to stay at the north end of the casino have been rebooked at Caesar’s Resorts.

Hawaii Says Aloha to Lanakila Summer Fun Program

The Department of Parks and Recreation in Honolulu Hawaii announced on July 11 that due to an emergency plumbing problem at the Lanakila District Park that their Lanakila Park Summer fun Program would be cancelled. 

Said Director Tom Robinson, “We really apologize to the parents and kids affected, but we must cancel Lakila Summer Fun due to a plumbing emergency that occurred late this afternoon.  Staff members are calling parents and will be on site in the morning to inform people of the closure.  DPR plumbers will visit Lanakila first thing in the morning ot begin repairs and the department will make an announcement as to whether or not Summer fun can resume Friday.”

Plumbing Lawsuit Takes a Bite Out of the Big Apple

On Tuesday, the NYC Department of Buildings was sued for ignoring plumbing and fire safety provisions.  Both the Plumbing Foundation and the Mechanical Contractors of New York filed Article 78 litigation against the New York City Department of Buildings, accusing the agency of ignoring city code.

“Stewart O’Brien, the executive director of the Plumbing Foundation and a former commissioner at the Department of Buildings said that he heard through the grapevine that Forest Cuty Ratner was considering doing plumbing and fire suppression work without using licensed workers in the factory where plumbing and sprinkline piping was being installed.”

Vandals Destroy Plumbing at Two Seattle Public Parks on July 4

The Space Needle wasn’t the only thing to witness the rocket’s red glare in seattleon the Fourth of July.

Apparently so did two public parks in Seattle when vandals set explosives off in the comfort stations at two area parks, destroying toilets and plumbing fixtures in comfort stations at Leschi Park and Madrona Park.  Reports indicated that miscreants shattered toilets by placing explosives inside them.  Decontamination and repair crews have been on the scene since July 6 to clean up and repair both facilities.  According to the report this kind of unfortunate event has happened in Seattle area parks before.  In the meantime, port-a-potties have been placed in both parks.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge & Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  For more helpful plumbing hints and how-to videos visit their site at http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com

Do You Know What Lives Behind Your Walls?

By Billy Aldridge

Unless there is a water stain on the sheet rock most people do not even consider what lurks behind their walls.  That’s a shame, since if your house is more than twenty years old there can be any number of nasty 

Cast Iron and copper DWV (Drain, Waste and Vent) Piping in a Timber Residential Building in Mission, British Columbia, Canada in the 1980s. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

things that can happen with old pipes that can cost you way more than a simple repair if they should either leak or burst.  While a burst pipe can get your attention fast, slow leaks can cause as much or more damage if left unchecked, since these can cause mold. Of course, just because your house was built before 1960 doesn’t mean that the pipes are the ones originally installed when the house was built.  To find out what’s living behind your walls you need to remove an access panel or two in order to do a little detective work.

Sherlock Homes to the Rescue

Homes built during the twenties and thirties were fitted out with galvanized pipes, which are easy to detect since they are battleship gray and have knobby joints.  If you detect these lines in your walls, you need to look for corrosion, since steel rusts.  You also need to test for flow since galvanized pipes tend to rust from the inside out.  To do this, turn on the taps one at a time, since the hot water side tends to rust faster than the cold water side.  If the flow for one side seems slower than the other, this is a sure sign of internal corrosion slowly but surely  clogging the pipe.

If your house was built in the 1950’s then your pipes could very well be copper.  This is good and bad.  It’s good because copper pipes practically last forever, since they are highly resistant to corrosion.  It’s bad, because copper is very expensive to repair.  In fact it’s so expensive that it isn’t unusual for houses with copper piping to have the pipes stolen if left vacant for any length of time.

Newer homes on the other hand have plastic pipes that never rust, are easy to install and repair and are even color coordinated (red for hot water and blue for cold).  It’s still a good idea to eyeball these at least once per year since they tend to leak at the joints and connections when they do leak.   

Speaking of connections, the larger pipes that carry the water from your drains, sinks, tubs, dishwasher and 

English: Under Slab Leak Repair (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

washing machine also bear scrutiny.  These are known in the industry as waste pipes, and they live beneath your home.  Homes built before 1970 typically have cast iron pipes which people back then thought would last forever.  Since iron like steel rusts, these waste pipes tend to get rough with age which can start to restrict the flow.  They also tend to get what are known as pit holes that can slowly but surely bore completely through the pipe until they begin to leak.  Repairing these pipes can be expensive, since cast iron waste pipes are heavy and difficult to work with.

If your home was built in the 70’s, then PVC waste pipes came into vogue.  Since these plastic pipes are much lighter than cast iron, they are much easier to repair.  Since plastic never rusts, they are also much more reliable and less likely to clog.  The only downside is that roots can find egress into these pipes through even the tiniest of crack which is why you need to contact a plumbing professional if water seems slow to drain or starts to back up.  Particularly here in Florida where afternoon gulley washers are the norm, the last thing you want to do is let your waste pipes clog before a major storm comes to call.  Then you’ll really find out what lives behind your walls, since flooding almost always requires the removal of water damaged sheetrock. 

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology with Aldridge and Sons Plumbing.  For mor helpful tips and how-to videos visit http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com

The Ghost of Business Past

By Billy Aldridge

As the old saying goes, “One man’s problem is another man’s opportunity.”  That adage has never been truer than it is today, when one considers the glut of office and retail space that has become available due to businesses shutting their doors. While a weak economy can sound the death knell to a number of ventures, there are those who look to capitalize on another’s misfortune by scooping up office and retail space on the cheap.

Ask any commercial realtor or property owner and they will tell you that tenancy for the past few years has been at a historic low.  So too are rents.  Where once office buildings and strip malls were filled nearly to capacity, any drive around town will show you numerous “ For Sale,” “For Rent” and “Space to Lease” signs.  While you may be looking to start a new venture or expand an existing one, realize that while you might be able to rent space on the cheap, there are a few things you need to check out before you sign on the dotted line.

In the first place, while you may inherit a prime location to run your operation due to a vacancy, you may also wind up inheriting your fair share of electrical and plumbing problems that were either ignored or jury rigged by the previous tenant or landlord.  A quick inspection can tell you whether systems are up to snuff, or if you are about to buy into someone else’s nightmare.

Areas to check include:

A picture of antiquated Water Heaters (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

     1.      Are there any signs of leaks in the roof or walls? Wet spots, discoloration and any indication of mold could be signs that water has or is finding its way into the structure.

     2.      When you turn on the hot water, how long does it take for the water to get hot and how hot is the water coming out of taps.  If the water seems to take an inordinate amount of time to heat up or comes out lukewarm at best, this indicates a compromised water heater.

     3.      Do sinks, drains and toilets empty quickly and completely?  Or does the water stand there awhile before it drains?  While this sounds like a simple enough problem to overcome, the last thing you want to do is have your sink back up during your grand opening.

     4.      When you turn on the tap, is the water pressure outstanding, average, or inadequate? Older buildings have older pipes which over time tend to clog with mineral accretions that reduce the effective flow of water.  The only solution in many cases is to re-pipe.

      5.      Are toilets low or high efficiency models?  In structures built before 1990, the toilet can use twice the amount of water every time it is flushed.  If you have a lot of foot traffic, this could add up to real money.

      6.      Other than plumbing, you also need to test every electrical fixture, socket and circuit to make sure that there are no electrical issues that need to be addressed. 

The bottom line is that by taking an hour or so to thoroughly inspect a property that you are considering can save you weeks of problems once you have taken possession.  After all, there are reasons other than financial that cause a business to close or relocate.  Just make sure that the ghost of business past doesn’t come to haunt you in your latest venture.

Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology with Aldridge and Sons Plumbing.  To find even more helpful hints and how-to videos, visit their site at http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com

Are You Ready for Hurricane Season?

By Billy Aldridge

While we may have dodged a bullet when it came to Tropical Storm Andrea, this may only be a taste of 

Tropical Cyclone Bingiza (Photo credit: NASA Goddard Photo and Video)

what’s to come as we Floridians slog through yet another hurricane season.  Since it’s always a good policy to hope for the best and prepare for the worst, I thought I’d take some time to talk about how to prepare your home’s plumbing for nature’s wrath.  While most people are more concerned with stocking the shelves and making sure that they have enough batteries and candles should the lights go out, there are a number of plumbing-related issues that you need to cross off your hurricane checklist before the next big blow.

     1.      Nobody is concerned with potable water until there is none to be had.  When hurricane conditions are imminent, you should fill your bathtub and a number of pots and pitchers with water, since the flooding that accompanies a hurricane brings with it a host of bacteria.  While you can always boil water in order to kill pathogens, if you have an electric stove and the power goes out, this might not be feasible.  So stocking up on water to drink and bathe in before the storm hits is always a good idea.

      2.      Once the water starts to rise, the last thing you want to do is flush the toilet.  This is a sure way to flood the bathroom.  As distasteful as this might sound, you need to have a bucket, plastic bags and baby wipes handy for just such a contingency.  Better safe than sorry.

      3.      Make sure all your drains and sewers are free of leaves and debris.  The last thing you want to do is have water back up into your home when the lightning is flashing and the rain is coming down in sheets.   If your drains have been slow to remove water after an afternoon shower, now is the time to have your local plumber inspect them for root intrusion.  I have actually seen water geyser up from blocked drains during major storms.  While most people worry about wind damage, flood damage is far more prevalent and costly to repair. 

      4.      Other nasty things that can accompany storm waters are snakes, rodents, bugs and mold, all of which would much prefer to spend their time inside your home during and after the storm.  This means you need to check for holes in screens, missing or damaged weather stripping and cracks in walls and broken seals around pipes, all of which can admit creepy crawlies.

5.      Locate and test all the water shut off valves in your home.  Should a pipe burst or water start to backflow into your home, you need to know how to shut off the water to part or all of your home.  (See video above to learn how to locate and shut off your water main.)  As bad as conditions are outside, the last time to start looking for the shutoff is when crud starts infiltrating your home via the plumbing.  You also need to locate and test the shutoff valves on your toilets, sinks, water heater and washing machine to make sure they shut completely.  If you haven’t exercised these valves in years they may have frozen shut and need to be either lubricated or replaced

     Billy Aldridge is one of the Doctors of Plumbology at Aldridge & Sons Plumbing in Jacksonville, Florida.  To see more helpful how-to videos go to http://plumbers-jacksonville-fl.com